Wine & Dine: Soluna

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Bursting with Authentic Interior Regional Mexican Fare and Tantalizing Tex Mex

Rightly so, San Antonio is proud of its Mexican restaurant heritage, and Alamo Heights is no exception. There are many choices in our area, but few excel and endure like SoLuna, located in the Collection at Broadway Street and Sunset Road. If you are one of the SoLuna regulars, then you understand its firm grasp on delivering the total restaurant experience to its guests. From executing delicious, fine-tuned dishes and drinks, to coordinating a seamless stream of service, SoLuna maintains a unique ambiance of authenticity and warmth amidst a bustling restaurant.
 
After years of exploring the wide range of Mexican restaurants along Broadway, Harry Wurzbach, Austin Highway, Nacogdoches and the 410 border, my preferred measuring tool for discerning Mexican restaurant rankings is the “guest-test.” It’s simple. When tasked with hosting out-of-town guests, I ask myself, “To which restaurant in 78209 should I invite my guest, and which will best showcase our beloved flavors, culture and traditions?” SoLuna makes the list every time, with guests overwhelmingly requesting repeat visits on subsequent trips to San Antonio. With its exquisite Spanish tiles, bubbling fountains, open-air covered patio, and an army of servers racing around, who would not be captivated, all before even taking a sip of water? These are all enchanting reminders of how close San Antonio is to Mexico and all of its finest.

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In retrospect, inviting out-of-town guests to SoLuna is also a way for me to “pay it forward.” When I first married a native of San Antonio and we were living in Houston, we would occasionally visit on weekends, and SoLuna was one of the first restaurants introduced to me by my in-laws. Little did I know they were strategizing; they were hoping to woo us out of Houston. While I cannot give SoLuna full credit, their green enchiladas and guava empanadas for dessert certainly helped give me a taste of what delights lay ahead.
 
Enticing menu offerings range from an array of interior regional Mexican specialties to tantalizing Tex-Mex; the menu bursts with the same authenticity as the ambiance. While the menu is extensive at SoLuna, high quality and consistent execution are their trademarks. Admittedly, I have my favorite dishes, just like the next person in Alamo Heights. I don’t know if this is typical for other communities, but I know countless locals who, like me, find that dish we love at first bite, and the rest is history… we order that same dish for years. Perhaps it is like locking in price fare when purchasing an airline ticket. When I first visited over 10 years ago, I locked in the enchiladas verdes and have not found any version better since. Period.
 
Actually, all of the enchiladas are outstanding. I recently went out on a limb and ordered a variety of other enchiladas with accompanying sauces, and each exceeded expectations, including the enchiladas de espinaca, the most startling. SoLuna clearly takes great pride in all that they serve, but their enchiladas especially showcase their attention to technique details: Start with the best corn tortillas; stuff them with freshly made, flavorful and well-seasoned fillings; roll with precision; and serve with the most vibrant, authentic sauces around — the kind you want to drink, they are that good.
 
I also locked in the sopas in the early days — I still order either the sopa de pollo, tortilla, or vegetales, depending on how hot or cold it is outside. Soup is an art, and SoLuna has definitely mastered it by starting with the best ingredients and simmering them to perfection so that even the last spoonfuls of broth leftover in the bowl are just as satisfying as the first chunky ones.
 
This article provided a wonderful challenge for me to explore new menu territory. I sought to go outside my usual requests and started with the shrimp al ajillo. Plump, sweet, garlicky and served with chile guajillo, this dish was beautiful, elegant and delicious. Plantains and rice were the perfect side dish. From the parilla (grill), the tamiquena del chef is a marinated outside skirt steak, served with white wine mushroom and cream sauce. Decadent. Be sure to request flour tortillas, and this dish quickly becomes the best beef fajitas for miles around. Lastly, as I mentioned before, the empanada de guyaba is one of my favorites. Crunchy, hot, creamy, sweet combination — this is a glorious dessert!

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For the more adventurous palate, try the cabrito (goat) tacos. These are moist and expertly prepared. For a comforting stew, try the calabacitas de puerco served solo or on sopes. This is Mexican squash cooked with pork in a light tomato chile broth.
Other noteworthy points: SoLuna is the place to see and be seen! We love running into other families or friends. Paella Sundays are popular for groups. Breakfast on the weekend is not to be missed. Finally, SoLuna is great for pickup if you prefer to eat at home.
SoLuna is the real deal for both Tex-Mex and Mex-Mex. The Calvillo family that also started La Fogata and owns El Mirasol (now in three locations) uses authentic recipes and practices that were influenced by their parents’ restaurant in Mexico City. You can be among the generations of locals who make SoLuna their weekly restaurant. Whether for family gatherings, date night, or after work for appetizers and drinks (Chispa margaritas are their signature), you will not be disappointed!

BY LAUREN BROWNING

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