It’s worth every calorie
When you need solace from the bustle, when you want to be lifted from the ordinary, you can find lunch and perfection at award-winning Frederick’s Restaurant, tucked into an unassuming corner at 7701 Broadway. You get the exceptional effect the moment you step in — subdued, intimate, yet full of lively conversations from the abundantly occupied tables.
It appears this 30-plus-year stalwart of fine dining maintains its place as a beloved local fine dining favorite. Swathed in velvet draperies, with cognac leather banquettes and white linen- topped tables, the dining room beckons. Punctuated with a dark wood bar, vertical slices of colored stained glass and soft-toned works of art, it’s the perfect setting for chef-owner Frederick Costa’s and chef Xavier Landa Verde’s French culinary creations.
With a lunch so special, why not imbibe in a glass of something from their impressive wine list? It turns out to be the perfect accompaniment to the crispy calamari with Chinese noodles and garlic sauce appetizer. Thick fingers of calamari are indeed crisp, the fine noodles bathed lightly in a sesame-laced spicy sauce. Begging off a spoon of my husband’s French onion soup, I find it luxuriant, velvety and smooth with just the perfect “bite” from its wine-soaked cheesy baked bread topping.
The entrée menu is varied and filled with $17 – 26-priced options like eggs Benedict, quiche, New York strip and veal piccata, but the day’s special of pork schnitzel proffered by the excellent waiter is too enticing to pass up. A good decision: The tender cutlet is accompanied by a red wine sauce and perfectly rendered haircots verts. My husband, a crabcake aficionado, shared a sampling of his cakes, which were paired with mixed greens, marinated red onions and a hoisin sauce. The tartar sauce, more of a creamy remoulade, added a lushness to the entrée.
Though nearly bursting from the meal, but craving a sweet ending, we turned to the dessert menu offering an abundance of treats: Apple Crepia with its sliced apples on puff pastry, and Le Trio, with Crème Brulee, Rum Euphoria and Chocolate Terrine with Crème Anglaise. We shared the homemade Cherry Ice Cream with marinated cherries and a pool of Kirsch liqueur, delicate and heavenly. Beyond the delectable food, the service is impeccable and hits the right note of attentiveness. You leave feeling lavishly satisfied.
Lunch at Frederick’s, pricey? Indeed. Indulgent? Absolutely. Worth every bit? Deliciously so.
By Cheryl Van Tuyl Jividen
