The Old Flame Endures
By Lauren Browning
Photography By Janice Thach
They say, “An old flame never dies.” If this is true, The Barn Door Restaurant and Meat Market is living proof. Igniting the flame in 1953, original owners Bill Tassos and David Strauss opened the doors and started spreading steak love and appreciation to San Antonio residents for decades. In 2011, Strauss sought out Randy Stokes to take the reins, confident he could carry the vision from the past and extend it into the future.
Today, Stokes is doing just that, dedicating himself daily to preserving the good things of the past, listening to customers, making improvements where needed and investing in his staff through team building and a matching IRA program.
“Copied by many – equaled by none!” is a motto he doesn’t take lightly. “My family’s tremendous support has made becoming an owner and steward of such an iconic restaurant possible,” credits Stokes.
On the weekends, his daughter works as a hostess, learning firsthand how rewarding (and challenging) the restaurant business can be.
Indeed, the flame at The Barn Door is most assuredly ablaze, over mesquite wood and charcoal, that is – no gas charbroiling allowed. From 2011 to 2014, sales have increased 38 percent. If you have lived in San Antonio long enough, you have likely enjoyed a delicious meal at The Barn Door. Your mouth waters thinking about their premium aged Certified Angus Beef® and their exquisite side dishes, buttery yeast rolls and old-fashioned pies and cakes – all made from scratch daily.
Between lunch and dinner, the varied menu offers something for everyone, including the prices. For healthier menu options, tasty examples include the fresh grilled salmon and the beautiful platter of seafood consisting of broiled shrimp, scallops, oysters Rockefeller and a fresh redfish filet served in a light pesto or blackened. The Barn Door proudly features seafood from highly regarded purveyor Groomer’s Seafood.
For appetizers featuring bold flavors, the bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese and a crunchy almond are a must-try. “Skinny” onion rings are the most popular appetizer choice, though — soaked in buttermilk first, then dusted in flour and fried until golden, feathery and crispy.
Vegetarians, there is even a place for you at The Barn Door. As Stokes explains, the essence of hospitality is “to be as accommodating and personable to guests as possible.” If a vegetarian decides nothing on the menu is appealing, an off-menu item like a marinated and grilled portobello mushroom is available. “Ask and you shall receive,” within limits, of course.
The Barn Door is a nostalgic place. Customers who were children in the ‘80s, for example, are now bringing their children to celebrate special dinners. My family is one of those families. Fixed firmly on our calendar is my son’s annual birthday dinner. It is a carnivorous tradition met with joy and delight by all. Getting his name on the board above the restaurant might even surpass the excitement of ordering a steak off the adult menu, but not by much.
For larger family gatherings, business meetings and birthday parties, The Barn Door offers enticing packages, with a variety of room sizes and charming themes from which to choose. The Barn Door is centrally located and ideal for customized dinner events, great or small, in upscale, intimate wine rooms or more casual and comfortable banquet rooms. There is no room charge, only a food and beverage charge. When selecting beverages, consider The Barn Door’s own private label of gin, vodka, tequila, spiced rum, silver rum and whiskey – the first restaurant in Texas to offer such. Made in Charleston, S.C., the private labels have won in customer blind tastings three to one.
Beyond memorable food and ambiance, friendly servers and generations of fans, the legendary “Sonny” Cochran must be mentioned. The original grill cook and host in recent years, he worked 62 years at The Barn Door before he passed away. His presence was monumental in helping to make not only the restaurant, but also the people around him, a success, including Randy Stokes as he helped him transition as the new owner.
In the dizziness of trendy restaurants here today, gone tomorrow, it’s refreshing to pursue restaurants that endure. Visit The Barn Door Restaurant and Meat Market soon for a generous and satisfying meal and a guided kitchen tour upon request. Alternatively, pick up steaks, sides and a homemade pie from the butcher shop and entertain at the ranch or at home. Discover why The Barn Door is an old and a new flame.
Open Tues.–Thurs., 11am – 2pm, 5-10 pm; Fri.– Sat.,11am- 2 pm, 5 -10:30 pm; Sun.
11 am – 8 pm.
Closed Monday. Call 210-824-0116 or visit www.thebarndoorrestaurant.com.
