WINE & DINE
Sopa, suppe, potage, zuppa…wherever you are in the world on cold day, soup is the comfort food of choice. Steaming soup can warm the body and soul like no other. There’s something universally compelling when it comes to ingesting hot, flavorful liquid. Even the simplest broth can have a power of its own. Helen Corbitt knew this over 60 years ago when she designed the menu and served as the original chef of the Zodiac, the iconic Neiman Marcus restaurant in Dallas. She has many trademarks, but one that continues today, in subsequent Neiman Marcus restaurants as well, is to serve each customer a demitasse of warm chicken broth before the meal. Indeed, soup has stamina.
Not only does soup satisfy, comfort and soothe, it even reveals much about its maker. In fact, Ludwig van Beethoven is believed to have said, “Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.” If he is right, try ordering soup as the measure of a good restaurant. I attempted this recently and was delighted to discover a high concentration of assumin
g and unassuming places for great soups in the area.
Earning a long-standing reputation for superb soup execution is Cappy’s Restaurant, a favorite among locals for elevated casual dining. I spoke with Trevor Lawton, the general manager and former soup maker (known as the “potager” in a French kitchen brigade) to glean some important insights on this role. “Let me first say, I learned everything I know about soups and the classical approach from my mentor, Cathy Tarasovic,” he boasted.
Then he explained, “She worked as our soup chef for many years before me and really left us this wonderful legacy we strive to steward with the utmost care. She also left her beloved gumbo recipe.”
Presently, Avin fills this prized position under the leadership of executive chef Gabriel Ibarra. Like Trevor, Avin is self-taught and takes Cappy’s “depth of conservation” culinary philosophy to heart. He constantly captures odds and ends made possible from the other cooks breaking down meat and prepping vegetables. Then he skillfully utilizes these “scraps” for flavor development in his soups. Avin sees potential where other cooks see waste, and his soup specials are the better for it. Born in Trinidad, he may have learned this viewpoint from island living and the necessity of resourcefulness. Soup choices run between $7 and $9. For another take on creative and well-executed soup specials, Silo on Austin Highway is a marvelous choice as well.
For the die-hard chick
en tortilla soup fans, I discovered there are two camps. One favors brothy and the other, darker and thicker. I am more familiar with the broth version, and you can find tasty variations at Paloma Blanca, Salsita’s, Soluna and probably others as well. However, the richer style reminiscent of chili gravy, with generous chunks of chicken and grated cheese stretching everywhere, can be found at Twin Sisters Bakery and Cafe. I visited with owner Pat Stein, who generously divulged the secret ingredients when I probed. I knew I detected robust tomato and chili spices and colors, but the thickness, I learned, is from pureeing corn tortilla into the base. This preparation is very authentic to many interior Mexican-style soups and sauces — a fine departure from the norm.
We are also fortunate to have several tasty Asian restaurants within reach, serving an array of mostly traditional Thai, Japanese and Chinese soups. Alternatively, Frederick’s offers an authentic French Vietnamese soup known as “Pho,” but pronounced “Fuh.” Many times, a dish will be authentic, but not necessarily palatable to a Texan’s taste buds. This bowl of bliss is an exception. Pho, a traditional French-Vietnamese dish, stems from the French classic, pot-au-feu, a hearty soup of boiled beef and vegetables. Pho, however, contains a seasoned broth of Vietnamese influence, rice noodles, Thai basil and cilantro. After living in Houston for some time, I had my share of pho because of the large Vietnamese population. Frederick’s pho surpassed them all, thanks to his pristine style and understated finesse.
As a parent, I find the true test of a dish is whether children will eat it. Between my picky and adventurous youngsters, they all slurped it up – quite literally. I ordered it “to go” and especially appreciated Frederick’s deliberate separation of ingredients for take-out, allowing me to pour the hot broth over the fresh ingredients at home as everyone sat down. One order ($14) can serve two or more adults as a first or second course, depending on the hunger level of those present. Brimming with meaty broth and loaded with shaved pieces of perfectly cooked medium-rare beef, it is an umami-delight. (Next try their decadent lobster bisque.)
Chicken soup is another story. Around here, it’s comfort food in a bowl – across cultures and demographics. While a family recipe may trump most restaurant versions, Salsita’s On Broadway hits the mark. Invite your mother (or another cook in the family) and see if their caldo de pollo can compete. It’s a hefty bowl of chicken, vegetables, broth and perhaps even a drumstick floating around – proof it was homemade broth, not from a bouillon cube or something worse. Another favorite for chicken soup along Broadway is Paloma Blanca’s caldito de pollo, featuring chicken, savory broth, rice, vegetables and big chunks of avocado. Both interpretations sold in large bowls fall between $8 and $10 and can easily be split between two or more people.
In San Antonio, fideo soup also has a devoted following. Several places in the vicinity make it, but how many are sold alongside some of the best-baked bread in the city? I am referring to La Panaderia, located on Broadway near 410. You may remember their exceptional baked goods sold at the Quarry Farmer’s Market a while back, but last year they opened a storefront and now they sell their gluten-free friendly breads made from sourdough fermented for 48 hours, other specialty breads, as well as lunch fare. You can order a cup of fideo (or black bean) for $2 or a bowl for $4, but the more preferred route is to select a bread, order a torta combination (many exciting choices await) and then choose either a small salad or a soup as an accompaniment.
For those new to the fideo scene, it is a traditional noodle dish originating in Mexico. Chefs take creative liberties, but it mostly consists of thin noodles toasted, then boiled in chicken stock and tomato and sometimes garnished with cotija cheese and cilantro. To toast the noodles actually means to fry them, but owner Jose Caceres carefully mentions how La Panaderia does not fry anything. Period. He takes great pride in offering healthier choices for patrons, including three varieties of sourdough bread for patrons with gluten sensitivities. Be sure to inquire when ordering.
As cold days come and go, step out of the green enchilada, cold cuts sandwich or chicken salad comfort zone and choose a piping bowl of soup instead. And for those occasions when there is no time to sit down and savor a meal of soup, there is always the soup bar at Central Market to find variety, quality and efficiency. Soup’s on!
BY LAUREN BROWNING
