Sorrento Ristorante


by: Ron Bechtol


Lunch at Sorrento Ristorante seemed the perfect refuge on a rainy day. Inside murals of bella Italia animated the space. Music and chatter emanated from the kitchen and a waiter quickly appeared. This seemed the perfect time for a trip down nostalgia strada.

On Monday, the lunch specials are mussels and clams over linguini in a puttanesca sauce and the combo plate of eggplant rollatini paired with lasagna. In the interests of furthering red-sauce revival, the combo plate was a no-brainer.

But first, that sauce. It was classically bright and acidic. Thankfully, the kitchen resisted the urge to add sugar to enliven the tomatoes. There may have been a shred of fresh basil. In short, it was just what it needed to be. Grazie, Nonna. Nor did the lasagna itself put on airs. Truth be told, lasagna is one dish in which some fiddling can be tolerated (and the Lasagna della Casa from the regular menu is pink-, not red-topped), but if it’s the traditional meat, cheese and sauce layered into and onto sheets of pasta one is after, this is it. The eggplant stood its ground, contributing substantially to diversity on the plate.

Sorrento’s also has plenty of choices for the traditional pizza lovers. They should head straight for homemade sausage, or maybe meatball, versions. But it’s frankly more fun here to sidestep into the white category – say with a clams casino rendition. This is an immediately appealing pie, both visually and (excuse the word) gustatorially. A shake of pepper flakes lifts all flavors.

Sorrento’s evening menu offers several deluxe options such as the all-things-marine zuppa di pesce over linguini in marinara. One loyal patron tells us she goes specifically for the Cappelini Alla Gino, angel hair pasta in a light pink sauce tossed with imported ham and peas. But I think my next trip may again be at lunch – storm or no storm. On Wednesday one special is lobster ravioli with spinach in a creamy saffron sauce. It will be good to see how Nonna does with this dish.

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